Is it a given that the flywheel should be re-surfaced? The overdrive is the push-button type on the end of the shifter. Starting out in 1st gear, I get a lurch, during which the engine revs slightly, then settles to normal. If I lifted the reverse knob and was careful, easy shift into 1st. Note the two copper washers and possibly plastic sleeves on the upper pair of studs. Note whether the noise occurs with the pedal depressed or released. You will find 3 gear on the stick 1 range and 1 split button. I'm just wondering if this is to be a continuing concern and if it is, are there any tricks to keep it from occurring any time soon.
Spray a little penetrating lubricant of choice at the joint between the bearing and the cone clutch. The reason it does not engage when the car is warm is that the gearbox oil is also hot - and thus thinner, so it's pressure drops. Since this is a very small opening the pressure build up is slow to allow a slow buildup of pressure. There are all sorts of causes for this to occur, age is one and poor electrical contact which causes heat which bakes the O-rings hard being another. See John Sargent's excellent illustrated of how to replace these seals and pistons. Unfortunately, many auto manufacturers do not consider changing the manual tranny oil a regular maintenance item. The solenoid has to be removed and shaken to test it.
There can be over time a small amount of leakage past the end O-ring and into the electrical area of the solenoid. Kleyn Trucks is one of the largest independent traders of used commercial vehicles in the world. It is this in between area where slippage occurs. Lube sparingly as you do not want any fluid getting into the coil area. Swap these few parts shifting cage, selector rod, tranny mount, and maybe the drive shaft coupling and clutch fork , and the tranny is ready to go right into the car. I've tried bleeding it, and the orignal owner history also shows the dealer bled the clutch.
More than likely the rod will be solid. Any thoughts on this train of thought would also be greatly appreciated. If you want to change gear manually, the button on the gearstick gives you full control of every shift. I also stick a couple of axle stands under other supporting bits. Chiltons says there is no adjustment of the linkage, Haynes has instructions for adjustingthe reverse detent plate as part of shift lever removal.
Sometimes, in any forward gear, in overrun, the engine drops back to idle, as if the overdrive was neither engaged nor disengaged and was freewheeling. The sick M46 no longer would go into 2nd gear and repair costs were potentially out of this world. Silent gear changes that take a lot of effort are usually a clutch which does not fully disengage or as you found out, the shifter itself Clutch: Clutch Replacement Clutch Replacement Tips. Once the piston is out, insert a small drift or stiff wire smaller than the piston. I never had a problem using that fluid. You can choose from a continually changing stock of 1,200 used trucks, tractor units, semi-trailers, trailers, tippers and mixers.
Inner solenoid piston is returned to normal position by a spring between the plug on the end of the solenoid bore and the piston. Is Redline really the magic bullet for these units, or is Volvo's stuff better? Northern locations and winter eliminate the 30W oil option since you regularly get below the 10 C low point for the oil option. Still a little rough on first and reverse. Hope this is the answer. Only because it is already engaged. Its called 12 speed even most drivers counting the gears to 6.
Note any changes: differences in noise or difficulty in selecting gears after the different wait time. When the car is hot it will not shift into overdrive. The two bolts are right there. The bell housing has a hex socket cast into it with a threaded nut in it just waiting for you to use. M-47 Shift Linkage Causes Hard Shift.
If the dash light comes on then goes out when you move the shift lever, the 4th gear switch is bad. Other Preventive Maintenance Needed When Changing the Clutch? As for removing the transmission, I supported the car on 4 jack stands and fashoned a transmission cradle out of a scrap 2x12 with supports. If the pressure is not within this range typically low replace the solenoid valve. Then shift 3-4 and 4-5 at as high an engine speed as can be done safely, but no higher than 4000 rpm. Of course there could be other problems but I'd begin here with the easiest and virtually cost free potential solution. Yes, that is the test.